> Now, here's the kicker:
Come on now.
This lens
https://7artisans.store/products/50mm-f1-05
is a fantastic wide aperture lens which is commercially available, affordable and a great value. Personally I tend to get bored if I am walking around with a 50mm lens but with that lens, the challenge of manual focus, the ability to take photos with hardly any light, and the ability to take dreamy photos like people have never seen I have so much fun. They make it for all the major camera brands.
Overall I am impressed with Chinese lens manufacturers who make other lenses like
https://www.venuslens.net/product/laowa-9mm-f-5-6-ff-rl/
which again are a great value and let me take pictures you haven't seen before.
I've got the 7A 35mm f/1.2 in M43 which is pretty nice for a walkaround lens.
I'd probably opt for the 50mm f/1.2 since it's 1/3 the price of the f/1.05 (£90 vs £260 for the M43 mount) if I didn't already have double-digit number of 50s in PK mount that I use with an adapter (and they're surprisingly good for 30-50 year old lenses.)
(I've got a 7A 10mm f/3.5 that I've not really got around to using much but now the UK is heading into Fake Summer, there's more light to make it useful.)
Manual focus I keep for film, I feel like it's a part of the process.
But I do wish my Sony 50 was a little less noisy/slow. Suppose I should pick up the GM version at some point.
I think next-level would be a hypercentric lens that can see around / behind objects as build buy Applied Science: https://youtu.be/iJ4yL6kaV1A?si=QG7YfeXkOqzoK46O
what if I want the opposite effect?
I hate blur, how do I remove all of it?
Focus stacking.
Shoot at a higher fstop with a sensor with a high native ISO, like 12,800.
The trade off is so much noise
pinhole camera and an insane amount of light.
Or, multiple exposures and HDR.
Not sure how multiple exposures helps?
Smaller sensor, tighter aperture. So yes, more light or a more sensitive sensor.